A Journey Through Dolpo: Retracing History, Supporting Communities, and Encountering the Elusive Snow Leopard
In the remote Dolpo region of north-west Nepal, towering river valleys and steep mountain paths create an isolated world accessible only by foot. Known for its preserved culture and rare wildlife, Dolpo offers a unique destination for those seeking adventure beyond mainstream trekking circuits. Recently, journalist and author Cal Flyn joined an extraordinary trek in Dolpo organized by Nomadic Skies, an ethical travel company that partners with Tailored Treks and Expeditions in Nepal to support community-centered tourism. Cal Flyn is a Scottish author and journalist renowned for her exploration of abandoned places and the resilience of nature. Her acclaimed book, Islands of Abandonment: Life in the Post-Human Landscape, delves into areas where human presence has receded, allowing ecosystems to regenerate and thrive. Flyn’s work offers a profound reflection on the enduring power of nature and the potential for ecological recovery in the absence of human intervention. Accompanying Flyn was author Lance Armstrong, who is writing a biography of Peter Matthiessen, the legendary naturalist and author whose journey through Dolpo in *The Snow Leopard* has inspired generations of explorers.
The trek, which begins at Juphal airport and culminates at the stunning Phoksundo Lake, is designed by Nomadic Skies and Tailored Treks to immerse travelers in Dolpo’s unique cultural and natural landscapes. Unlike the rapid circuits around Annapurna or Everest, this 13-day journey prioritizes engagement with local communities. Travelers camp along trails, visiting remote villages, meeting locals, and contributing to the regional economy by employing local guides, porters, and mule handlers.
Walking in the Footsteps of Legends
Lance Armstrong’s presence added a unique historical and literary depth to this trek, as he retraced the steps of Matthiessen, whose pilgrimage through Dolpo in search of the elusive snow leopard has become iconic. This journey allowed Armstrong—and those trekking with him—a rare opportunity to walk along “memory lane” and revisit the places that shaped Matthiessen’s spiritual exploration. The experience brought an added layer of homage to Matthiessen’s life and his reverence for the wild and mystical.
Connecting with the People of Dolpo
The journey provided a meaningful opportunity to connect with Dolpo’s people, including Puspa Garung, a farmer, herder in the village of Rechi and Galpo in Pugmo. Cal Flyn’s interaction with Pusap and Gyalpo highlighted the resilience of the local community, where people like have adapted to life alongside apex predators like the snow leopard. Despite the challenges of livestock predation, there is a remarkable balance of respect and spiritual reverence among the people of Dolpo for this enigmatic creature. These encounters offered travelers an intimate understanding of the realities of life in Dolpo and the cultural values that uphold it.
Community Support and Conservation at the Heart of Nomadic Skies
Nomadic Skies, in collaboration with Tailored Treks, emphasizes a model that uplifts local communities and reduces economic pressures through conservation and sustainable tourism. The Livestock Insurance Scheme, funded in part by conservation groups like the World Wildlife Fund, provides financial relief to herders who lose livestock to snow leopards and other predators. Managed locally by villagers such as Dawa Gyalpo, this scheme fosters a coexistence model that mitigates the economic impact of predation, reducing the risk of retaliatory actions and allowing conservation and livelihood to thrive side-by-side.
In the village of Pungmo, where the Bon religion emphasizes reverence for all life, these conservation efforts resonate deeply. Every household has a “lay lama,” responsible for observing spiritual practices and maintaining harmony with nature. Such respect for all creatures supports Dolpo’s status as one of the last strongholds for species like the snow leopard, embodying the value of ecological and cultural conservation.
A Journey of Discovery and Responsibility
Trekking with Nomadic Skies and Tailored Treks offers more than just scenic landscapes—it’s a commitment to preserving the culture, supporting the economy, and protecting the unique ecology of Dolpo. With Armstrong’s literary homage to Matthiessen and Flyn’s exploration of Dolpo’s vibrant culture, this journey became a blend of history, culture, and environmental advocacy. For those seeking an adventure that respects and uplifts the regions it explores, Dolpo offers more than an experience—it offers a legacy.
By choosing Nomadic Skies, travelers not only walk in the footsteps of legends but also contribute to a sustainable future for the people and wildlife of Dolpo. In partnership with local experts at Tailored Treks and Expeditions, Nomadic Skies provides an immersive journey into one of the world’s last unspoiled frontiers.
An article written by Can Flyn about the trip was published in Financial Times.
Snow leopards and slow trekking in Dolpo, Nepal